Fujifilm X-T1 16 MP Mirrorless Digital Camera with 3.0-Inch LCD (Body Only) (Weather Resistant) (Old Model)
Fujifilm X-T1 16 MP Mirrorless Digital Camera with 3.0-Inch LCD (Body Only) (Weather Resistant) (Old Model)
- Make sure this fits by entering your model number.
- 16.3 MP APS-C X-Trans II CMOS sensor
- ISO 200-6400 (expandable to 51200)
- 1080/30fps HD video (.MOV/H.264)
- Water and dust resistant and freezeproof to -14C/+14F with weather resistant lenses
- Up to 8 FPS continuous shooting
- 3 inch tiltable LCD with 1,040,000 dots
- OLED viewfinder with 100% coverage and 2,360,000 dots
Brand : Fujifilm
Category : Electronics,Camera & Photo,Digital Cameras,Mirrorless Cameras
Rating : 4.5
Review Count : 347
Fujifilm X-T1 16 MP Mirrorless Digital Camera with 3.0-Inch LCD (Body Only) (Weather Resistant) (Old Model)
- In many ways I feel the FujiFilm X-T1 is a groundbreaking camera, though it is my first step into the \"Compact System Camera\" genre.I\'ve shot with many film and digital cameras, professionally, for around 25 years. I currently shoot my day-job (working photojournalist) with a Nikon D4. After shooting film for many years and hand-processing it on a daily basis, I welcomed digital ;). In 2000, I was chosen by my company (a NYT-owned newspaper) to fly to another state and meet with a Nikon rep to learn how to use the new D1 that was about to come upon the scene. I\'ve shot with many Nikon bodies since the D1 and own too much glass and flash equipment to even dream about switching to another system at the moment. I kind of laughed at the 4/3 systems when I heard about them, thinking them backwards-thinking when bigger sensors were becoming more mainstream, and getting cheaper and better. Then I saw and felt smitten by a Fuji X10, and a friend adopted an Olympus in favor of his pro Canon gear. I had such a huge system of camera equipment it was daunting, but I could use a new point/shoot, right? I love to hike and shoot nature, but wanted something small and light, but still capable. The X10 met my needs, and still does.Fuji seems to get what I like in a camera: not only the look but the ergonomics, features, the blending of old-style with the latest cutting-edge technology. Real buttons and dials that are tactile--you feel connected to the machine in your hand, letting it help you create your vision. No vast menus that become a plethora of a corn maze you cant find your way out of.Let me get one thing straight--I am not a \"fanboy\" of any system or brand. I began my photo career shooting with Minolta. I owned (3) Maxxum 9000 bodies (the first Pro AF body made) and shot daily news with them for nearly 10 years. Simultaneously, I used Nikon F3\'s and FM2\'s, switching between both systems for years (owned Maxxum 9xi and Nikon F5 before digital took over) But I\'ve shot mostly with Nikon for the last 15 years, even while close friends and colleagues switched from Nikon to Canon in the 90\'s when their AF systems began whipping Nikon. Minolta never had as big a \"pro\" market as Nikon or Canon, but they were innovators. First mass-produced AF camera, first multi-segment metering system, wireless TTL flash. I believe the Minolta R&D team still lives on in Sony, who is also doing innovative things as well...I\'ve had to keep up with technology. I\'ve had to switch from shooting only stills to video clips and editing/posting multimedia, web-based reportage. Modern DSLRs shoot quality video, but the bodies were not ever initially designed to shoot video technically, or ergonomically. I could never stand looking at the LCD to shoot, so I bought the first Hoodman loupe and made my own straps from hair bands to hold it onto my camera. Worked, but still a pain. No mic input, so you had to have audio recorders and mics seperately. Most people, probably those reading this, simply hate video and would wish it was not even a feature built into this camera. But the X-T1 does a few things I like in that regards. The video feature is for the most part hidden, the dedicated button on the top-plate is perfect. You simply shoot a video clip when you want to without having to put the camera into video mode (and then forget that you left it there when the moment happens for a great still picture). You press the dedicated button again to stop shooting video. It does have a microphone input, which is very important for video. I wish it was the standard 3.5mm jack, but my adapter works fine. It has on-screen audio metering and some limited manual audio control, but no headphone jack for monitoring. The video output is perfectly fine for home movies and web-based news clips.The camera IS COMPACT, more so than I had imagined. Certainly compared to the beast of a D4. My hands are not small, but my rather long and slender fingers can manipulate the controls just fine. The back menu buttons are very recessed and are hard to find by touch. But they would probably be in the way if they were bigger on this limited-real-estate body.To me, the camera just feels about perfect. That\'s something hard to really quantify and very personal so that\'s all I will say--as it may differ greatly for you. It fits well in a small canvas bag with just a couple of lenses (my goal) and should work well for travel and even pro shooting without the kitchen sink. I plan to get the upcoming 16-55mm f/2.8, and along with the 56mm f/1.2, shoot about 90% of what I need with two XF lenses.I have this lens adapter (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D9BL07E/ref=oh_details_o04_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) which is doing OK converting my many Nikkors to Fuji X for the time being. It seems solid enough, smooth mounting on both the Fuji body and the Nikon lenses. The aperture ring turns 4 indented clicks (from wide-open to fully stopped-down) but you can manipulate the ring between clicks for more precise settings, yet you can\'t really tell what f/stop you are at (and reads as f/\"O\" in the X-T1 display). I will say that the adapter makes even a 50mm a good inch-and-a-half longer on the camera, and makes larger Nikon lenses look ridiculously huge/long on the tiny X-T1 body.The 8-frame-per-second drive is plenty fast enough for about anything. That said, I didn\'t get into the Fuji system for speed. I wanted a compact system that does make me THINK again about composure and the joy of shooting manually and with thought. Too many people \"video\" with stills. Sure, I do the same sometimes with breaking spot news and sports (spurting away at 10 fps is sometimes useful), but I want this system for a different intent. Having a degree in art, I came into photography/journalism from a different angle, and I think the Fuji system gets me back there. Manual controls do in some cases hinder speed, but they make you think deliberately as well. I\'ve always thought that mechanical apertures on lenses were much faster and easier to use however--You can flip from wide-open to stopped-down in a fraction of a second--while using your left hand--and keeping your right index finger ON the shutter.The X-T1 starts up fast and is ready to shoot immediately. Upon shut-down with the On/Off switch, a very momentary \"Sensor Cleaning\" is displayed on the LCD screen.The two big main dials (ISO and shutter speed) on the faceplate have a the lock button in the center of the dial which requires pushing in to turn. The ISO dial requires you to push in the lock button at every setting; the shutter dial only locks when in the \"A\" position--the settings can be turned freely outside of the A position.The function dials below these two bigger dials control Drive modes (on the left under ISO) and Metering modes (under the Shutter dial)--these lower dials can be switched without pushing in the Lock button. The Exposure-Compensation dial (on the far right) is also very large, but it thankfully does not lock but is well-damped and not easy to accidently turn.There is no Mode dial. You simply put both the ISO and Shutter dials on \"A\' for automatic or turn them to what you want for manual. Its actually better, and less fiddling than you can imagine (particularly if you have experience shooting with a manual camera from the past film SLRs, or if you want to learn how to use a camera with a retro-manual feel).The sweep-panorama (with auto-stitching) seems to work quite well (as it does on older Fujis), I use this feature quite a bit on the X10.The multiple-exposure mode is a new design, and is quite amazing. I did infrequently use multiple exposure on my Nikons, but it required going into menus and fiddling with settings for each frame. The X-T1 will stay in the mode when the switch is set to it, but what is amazing is that it will SHOW you the two frames simultaneously in the VF--the first shot and the \"Live\" second frame--ingenious! So you can see the (faded) first frame while composing the second frame over top of it--quite useful for in-camera double-exposing.As I sadly have NO Fuji XF lenses at the moment (56 is pre-ordered) I cannot evaluate AF speed/accuracy, nor the quality of the Fujinon optics in this review. I have no reason to think they are nothing but spectacular, and would be a primary reason for owning a Fuji XF system in the first place. I did not want to spend money on the included kit lens as I plan to get the upgraded pro zoom lens and only the primes I want for my growing compact kit.I can say that the Nikon mount lenses I have tried (with adapter) so far work quite well (in aperture-priority A mode) and with MF. The focus-peaking modes and split-screen focusing features work great for manual focusing on the X-T1, making it a truly useful body even for those who want to use other-brand lenses on the great Fuji sensor.Frankly, the EVF is probably the major reason I wanted the X-T1. It is large and bright, and reasonably fast, as has been described. I would not say it is BETTER than an OVF, but it adds to functions that are simply not possible with an OVF: such as being able to see thru the viewfinder to shoot video, watching changes to exposure/color balance, etc. as you shoot. And even though there is noticeable GAIN NOISE when shooting in very low light, you can actually see better through the EVF than with your naked eye! Not to mention, less mechanical problems with mirror alignment, much less (sound) noise with mirror slap, easier to clean sensor. You can also preview your shot images in the EVF without taking your eye away from the camera--something that works well for someone (as myself) who sometimes needs reading glasses to see the LCD and you can see it well in bright outdoor sun. I really think EVF is the future, whether Nikon or Canon decide to get on board or not. The EVF on this camera could be a game-changer and will only get better.There is a Silent mode that cuts off any beeps and turns off flash. As the XT-1 uses a focal plane shutter, the shutter does still make a sound in Silent Mode, but is fairly quiet and has a nice muted mechanical sound. Its still MUCH QUIETER than my Nikons, especially a pro D4 even in Quiet Mode. It would be nice to have a completely silent shutter (as other Fuji models) but I can live with it.The APS-C-sized sensor used in the X-T1 is FujiFilm\'s own (Trans-X) sensor, and it works quite well. The resolution is very good out of camera and with JPEGs even. It has good depth, color balance and saturation. I do think it can look more FILM-LIKE than other manufacturers\' sensors, which I am sure Fuji has labored much at. The Film-Simulation modes work well too. I can\'t say they look exactly like their film-counterparts (and I\'ve shot plenty of Fuji film, having finally thrown out 100\' bulk-rolls of Fujichrome 50 from my refrigerator), but the effect is nice and the feature of having film-simulation in-camera is something missing from digital cameras for many years. B/W modes (with included filters for effect) work quite well. Many old-schooler\'s such as myself can remember shooting BW film and how dramatic a red filter can help darken a sky--it works about as well here, digitally. BW pops and also had good tonal gradation. It\'s a joy to actually use it in-camera. With almost all other digital bodies, I would just convert color to BW in Photoshop. But the Fuji system makes you want to decide how you want it to look while you are shooting, something that makes the creative process somehow more fun as it is retro. (I do find it interesting that Fuji has adopted the FILM to its branding/logo for its digital cameras, as they were mainly branded just FUJI in the days that I shot their great film ;).The battery seems to last OK for what all the camera does. It could last longer, but it would make the camera bigger, and extra batteries for the Fuji X-series are cheap and pocketable. This extra set with a charger works great and is very affordable (the included charger works as well as the Fuji one and is more compact and includes a car cord) http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0084G3FKE/ref=oh_details_o05_s01_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1The X-T1 body is solidly built while very compact and not too heavy either. I like that it is weatherized, as I shoot in almost any condition (another reason I am waiting for the 16-55 lens). I have the grip pre-ordered and hope to receive it soon, will add comments here....http://www.amazon.com/Fujifilm-Vertical-Battery-Grip-X-T1/product-reviews/B00I44EUBO/ref=dp_top_cm_cr_acr_txt?showViewpoints=1The X-T1, while retro-looking, includes many built-in technological advances, such as the EVF...and built-in WI-FI. At the press of a single button, you can open the wi-fi and transmit photos to a smartphone or tablet, or shoot and auto-upload to a desktop (all with no added wires and additional cost parts). The FujiFilm \"CAMERA REMOTE\" APP is free. And it works amazingly well! I had no problems setting up my smartphone (android) to work with the camera, adjust settings, and shoot photos remotely from the smartphone or a tablet (Note 10.1). Previewing photos and uploading (named \"Importing\" on the app) shots from the camera to phone/tablet was also a breeze. It just works, flawlessly. You can even use touch-focus on the screen of your phone and manipulate about every manual function available on the camera.Will I completely convert to a compact camera? Probably not. I have too much invested in the Nikon DSLR system, which still works well for its intended use, particularly fast-moving action, sports, etc. The one downfall at the moment for Fuji is the flash system. I do plan to test using radio slaves on the X-T1 with strobes and studio lighting in the future, but I do not foresee having TTL flash be anywhere near the advanced state of Nikon CLS at the moment. I certainly wish the X-sync was much higher than 1/180 as well.As I use the camera more, and acquire the upcoming Fujinon XF lenses, I will add any observations/evaluations to my review....FUJIFILM has done a great job designing and engineering this little gem of a camera. It\'s just a joy to use, and its full of features that are cutting-edge AND the perfect mix of retro-art-camera...in a compact size with a great clean sensor that records nice, detailed images!***ADD 3-7-2014***Some new observations:For those like me that are using non-dedicated glass with a lens adapter, i\'ve discovered a few quirks i\'d like to share. Although the Nikkors i\'ve used with my adapter (above) work quite well in many situations, some of the strengths of the great EVF are also a weakness in this regard! Since you have to manually stop-down the lens to get the DOF/exposure you need, you also cant SEE through the EVF in some situations. For example, i was hoping to shoot a few studio shots with the X-T1 and my Nikon 85/70-200mm--even at LOW ISO (100) i could not shoot at lower than f/11 with the Elinchroms (500-2000 Watt/s heads)so having to stop-down the lens made the EVF so dim that i could not even see to focus (manually). This makes the camera less-useful in this regard. Of course, you could open lens, pre-focus, stop down and shoot, but not very practical...this is of course not Fuji\'s fault, as its a third-party use. (I really am looking forward to getting a XF lens--hope that 56 isn\'t too long in coming!)Also regarding flash/x-sync: the stated 1/180 sync is certainly the TOP USABLE SYNC SPEED from my tests thus far. I was able to get 1/250 with no shutter blackout many times using a hot-shoe attached (SB) flash in manual settings, but not in any wireless function. I\'d hoped it would be possible to get up to 250th in manual flash scenerios, but certainly not with the (1st gen)PWs and other radio slaves i\'ve tested so far (this is to be expected as the RF will slow down the transmission though).This is certainly a bit of a let-down for me personally, as i would love to be able to shoot flash outdoors and still use wide apertures. And the combination of ISO 100 (really 200) and a slow 1/180 sync is just not that useful. It would be nice to have a body with a much more substantial range of lower ISO--if there was a way to keep the decent high ISO as well ;) Haven\'t shot Kodachrome25 or Fujichrome50 is quite a few years now, but an ISO of 25 could be useful for some instances, or a built-in ND filter, OR find a way to get that x-sync MUCH faster!***ADD 3-10-2014***I\'ve received my Vertical Grip for the X-T1 and have reviewed it here:http://www.amazon.com/Fujifilm-Vertical-Battery-Grip-X-T1/product-reviews/B00I44EUBO/ref=dp_top_cm_cr_acr_txt?showViewpoints=1Like the camera even more with the attached grip--more comfortable to hold, much easier to shoot in vertical orientation. Does make it taller but its still smaller and thinner than a DSLR with grip. Looks even more like an SLR of course, but it looks very nice and the fit and finish is very good, perfectly complements the camera.
- Update 2016Pending implementation of full ISO range with back/thumb wheel dial (an obvious companion to T mode for shutter speed), to control camera without taking it from the shooting position. FUJI: this makes it easier for DSLR users to make the switch.Pending to implement the customization of directions of dials to reverse them to the IMHO logical direction (right to increase exposure and left to lower exp). FUJI: if you want serious DSLR users to switch to fuji, this is a must.With sugru, buttons are less painful.Doors even more bowed and rubbers more loose (on back mainly, now also on front, both on the grip area).Finally mobile app able to download all pics and not only 30 images each time.Edit June 2015 / Firmware 4.0: Controling full shutter speed range with front dial is amazing!!!, for normal use and a must for use with vertical grip. Whats strange they didn\'t add (can\'t do things just right) is to be able to control ISO with back dial... it would make the X-T1 perfect to use without taking the eye fo the viewfinder and hanving to change the grip constantly and loosing composition, the moment, etc.Now being able to use the T mode for controlling shutter speed, they should add customization of the directions of the dials (to help transition from DSLR/Nikon shooters). I use Fuji & Nikon, and it\'s a pain they work in different direction, besides is more natural IMHO move to the right to increase exposure and vice versa.Still testing, but can say continuous focus is still useless, it keeps hunting going in and out of focus (using Fujinon 56 mm f/1.2 and Fujinon 35mm f/1.4), tried it with half pressing shutter and on manual focus using back button set to continuous. So still have to use back button focus castrated and having half of its advantages since have to set it to single focus (and not continuous).Face detection autofocus is still useless. If it doesn\'t detect a face it does absolutely nothing, it should default to center point focus or other default focusing but not focusing at all... its nonesense, not user friendly to have to disable it every time it doesn\'t detect a face (actually this happens when using back button focus/AF-L in manual focus, so another new bug for back button focus, before it was not using PDAF, now this... very curious).Doors are even more bowed now.Edit December 2014: Finally a firmware update. Great update!, fixing some of the issues: PDAF use for back button. Having 1/32000 is great! even though the rolling shutter effect for fast moving objects. Customizable Q menu is nice as well as more options for Fn buttons, although the most unused button was not included as on other X models: the movie button. Bracketing still has a maximum of +-1 EV!Could test the camera with the 56mm f/1.2 lens and the continuous focusing is still slow, not near as a DSLR and unusable for randomly moving objects like toddlers or pets... maybe it\'s ok for the reviews shooting straight to the camera at a constant speed (horse, bike, or car) but for kids, it locks focus very scarcely. So for these subjects instead of using continuous focus as on a DSLR you have to prefocus/area focusing or simply wait till they stop.Besides focus, it has some advantages: size, flip screen, even for studio lighting, although no wireless ttl capabilities, the preview image (which I turned off on DSLR) shown on the EVF is extremely handy in studio, so you can review instantly without taking the camera off you eye the shot, if a flash didn\'t fire or the batteries died, if the model blinked, etc. In studio, works excellent with Cactus V6 Cactus Wireless WRLS Flash Transceiver V6 Single system (even better than a Nikon DSLR... don\'t know why but it has been more reliable to me). Also the Image Quality of the 56mm is amazing.The flip screen also beats my DSLR allowing me to shoot models in the beach with the camera almost touching the sand with a angle of view much lower than laying in the ground with my DSLR.The only painful thing is when I have to shoot moving pets or toddlers... there my DSLR is far far superior.Another problem detected since a couple of months: the door for having the light leak is bowed now, so the weather sealing is not a feature anymore, and will have to use a black tape to close the light leak since now that door is semi-opened.Edit September 10: Fuji announced (together with the silver x-t1) a firmware update for December :(... which I hope fixes the AF-L/Instant AF (mentioned below making the back button focus unusable), together with allowing to change the AF area size, which again can finally make the camera usable with back button focus:[...]3) Variable Focus Area during MF.8) Phase Detection AF support for Instant AF.They had deactivated the Phase detection for the AF-L!!!! WT... Hell!!! It seem that Kaisen in this case was castrating the camera and then release firmware upgrades to un-castrate it... at least after (almost) one year of releasing the camera it will work as it should (which is best than other manufacturers). Will have to see if the firmware comes out and delivers what is promised.Edit June 27, 2014: Body Firmware update released yesterday (1.10) doesn\'t fix \"Instant AF Setting -> AF-C bug\", which makes AF-L on Manual never lock focus and going out of focus even after the green light for in focus is reached, while on the same conditions but setting focus dial instead of Manual on Continuous focus, the focus is correctly locked half pressing the shutter.Also the bug not allowing to change the size of the focus area while on Manual focus is still there.So a supposedly great camera for manual focus fails miserably on such basic tasks (while working correctly on other modes, so its simply a bug developers haven\'t taken the time to address... I was wishing they would fix it on the first firmware update)Edit April 13, 2014: The continuous issue I have mentioned only/mostly happens if you use AF-L as back button focus on manual focus. So this is a bug on how AF-L works in manual focus. If you set focus to Continuous, it actually is able to lock (green light stays turned on confirming focus is ok) although you keep pressing half way the shutter button (as continuous focus should work). But if you set focus to manual, and set \"Instant AF setting\" to \"AF-C\" (what should work as back button focus mode), when you do the same test as before, the focus never locks, and the green light turns on and off and never locks, so some photos will be on focus, if you by chance take it when the light is green. Note, that on both cases I\'m focusing exactly the same black bar next to a white background with plenty of light.Edit April 8, 2014: Lightroom 5.4 is out now recognizes XT1 files, and added a try on film simulations (nice for the effort), but demosaicing has not improved at all with smudged foliage and texture (I\'ve read PhotoNinja or Iridient make a much better job converting RAF files). At least now you can manage your files from LR (converting them with export from LR).Wanted to mention that SOOC JPG\'s are great, very impressive actually (contrasting to the poor photos with bad sharpening+artifacts from LR). Don\'t know why Fuji doesn\'t work with Adobe to have something near in quality to the in camera RAW converter.Edit August 2014: Flash in commander mode is nothing but commander, it actually affects exposure badly and produces the typical \"on camera flash\" look. Why it\'s there? It\'s the same as \"flash\". At least Fuji could have made it less powerfull when set to commander mode or managed something like the X-E2 flash that can be pointed somewhere else.Edit August 2014 (2): Battery charger stop working. To start with battery charger is bad designed as commented on several parts: green light while charging and it turns off when charged. With this flawed design how do you know that light is off because the charger got unplugged or the battery is loose or defective or like what happened to me, the led indicator or charger is malfunctioning?. Since some time ago, after a minute or so after I start charging batteries, the led light turns off, which caused me to believe that the battery was charged but it was half charged or less. After doing some tests I realized that the led indicator is malfunctioning: it turns off after one minute although it keeps charging, but I have to be guessing if it is fully charged or not. Luckily as the battery life is so bad on the X-T1, I bought a couple of Wasabi batteries (link to item on amazon: goo.gl/6Ek7El ) which came with a charger, which is better designed (red led which turns green on full charge) and I can use it from now on. Besides it doesn\'t need an additional (extra long) cable as the Fuji charger, so it\'s more like a travel charger, so smaller, travel friendly and in line with a mirrorless camera, and you can\'t lose any parts. Wasabi batteries have worked ok so far also.Edit March 15, 2014: Fuji-US \"flare effect\" on cameras up to SN:41A05201, plus free repair goo.gl/g3VFXLEdit March 14: Finally Fuji Japan acknowledged the issue and offer free repair in Japan... let\'s hope it\'s world wide in the future, goo.gl/LOC0tVAt least a better approach than other manufacturers (Nikon D600) that never acknowledge issues and wouldn\'t offer free repairs in a million years.Edit March 16, 2014: Tried to use it for a portrait session, and sadly the back button focus \"mode\" (Focus in manual, and using AF-L to focusing) is very inaccurate for precise focusing and shallow depth of field, because, as I mentioned in my first impressions the focusing area in manual focus mode, although you can change its position, you can\'t change its size!, and the default size it\'s huge compared to an eye in a portrait, so at the end I couldn\'t use the back button focus option at all :(... It will be very disappointing for all of those who use back button focus unless you don\'t need a precise focus. As I said before, I hope Fuji will add this option (change focus area size) also to manual focus mode.Also as I also mentioned before, with the 35mm f/1.4 the continuous focus never locks and keeps searching/moving after reaching focus, so again for back focus button \"mode\" (with continuous focus, as back button focus is supposed to be used) can\'t really be used with shallow depth of field, so have to set the back button focus to single and not continuous, which takes away lot of the advantages of back button focus (having single and continuos focus all in one without changing settings).Using the Rokinon 85mm f/1.4+Metabones speedbooster, creates great images, with amazing out of focus area and great FF look images, and it\'s actually usable manually focusing wide open (softer images though than with something equivalent on a FF DSLR), contrary to manual focusing this lens on any DSLR I have ever tried before (even with a focusing screen I once installed). So at least finally I can use this great and cheap lens.==== ORIGINAL REVIEW (March 9):The Fuji X-T1 comes with a light leak ( pic: goo.gl/s6xJOn or google search it or view video on youtube documenting the issue on probably all X-T1 up to date), so if you do long exposure photography at night or like using dark ND filters at daylight shooting exposures of more than 30 seconds (only current way to do it is opening the door with the leak). I bought it in the States but live in South America, so can\'t send it back easily. Shame on Fuji for poor quality control and for rushing the release of the camera.My initial impressions, very disappointed as you can imagine, receiving a defective new 1900 USD camera (body+35mm) plus the following issues (known or not):The D-pad is bad!, small, too difficult to press, no tactile feedback when pressing, and the front/back dials are also difficult to feel, to find and to move... as most buttons really (contrary to the dials). I hope I will get used to them.The viewfinder is ok (this is the first EVF I have ever tried, so maybe that\'s why I found it just ok, and nothing more, since the only point of comparison is a FF DSLR). Feels natural with good light but it is very noisy on low light, which makes it difficult to use, almost unusable to manual focus. The WYSIWYG approach is actually nice (ie for WB, film simulation modes, difficult exposures)In the dual display the area to focus is too small and is of no help IMO (or for me at least). (future fix via firmware update?)The remote app coupled to the camera OK on 2 android devices: Google Nexus 4 (running Android 4.4.2) and Samsung Galaxy Note 2 (running Android 4.3). But the remote mobile app only can be used up to 30 seconds even in bulb mode, which is a very limited and short minded implementation of remote app and won\'t be a workaround for the light leak issue and make the app useless for long exposure and to compensate the lacking threaded shutter button. So the remote app for me it\'s almost nothing more than a gimmick if it doesn\'t allow prolong exposure control. (future fix via firmware update?)The \"T\" mode (on shutter dial) is nicely implemented (setting shutter time with the front dial... but only from 2 to 30 seconds). Over 30 sec you should use Bulb which there is no easy/without light leak way to use. And below the 2 seconds you have the dial... but I would love that T would enable a full dial set (ie. reach from 1/4000 to 30 sec ala DSLR, for those situations in which you want to change it on the fly without taking the eye from the viewfinder... and set ISO with the back dial).Also for better usability (and seamless transition from DSLR), there should be an option to use the back wheel dial to set ISO, so user could change ISO without taking the camera from shooting position (like DSLR). And the directions should be customizable, being able to reverse its direction.Other issues:The focus point selection is a nightmare (didn\'t thought it was so bad when I read about it) with the D-Pad and the need to press a function button before and press OK after moving the focus point is anything but fast... and with these buttons even harder. It should be direct as the rest of the cameras in the world. And to workaround the D-Pad, it could use on future firmwares front and back wheel (if they want to keep pressing first a Fn key before being able to change focus point)Edit April 13: I have get used to the D-Pad, so now it\'s usable, but clearly not fast as it could have been with normal quality buttons.Another known issue and hoping it will get corrected via firmware: face detection excludes any other focus point. So if you set it to face, and it doesn\'t detect a face or you want to take a picture of another thing you won\'t be able to focus until you dig to the menu to change it. (future fix via firmware update?). Face detect can be set to a function button... why not make it a direct toggle (as with other binary options) and not Fn -> face menu -> move from off to on (with D-Pad!!!) -> OKOnly +-1EV for bracketing... not a camera to make HDR as all other Fuji X, a very old issue which I can\'t understand why haven\'t they fixed it. Maybe Fuji don\'t like ppl taking HDR with their camera. You still can do it manually but not handheld and taking advantage of the 8fps HL shoot mode. (future fix via firmware update? but doubt it since it has been there since Fuji X100)Slow flash sync speed 1/180. And to stay in topic although in wonderland: no Hi Speed Sync, no wireless commander/remote control of other flashes with TTL (I know this is too much for the X-T1, but it would be amazing to have a leaf shutter, faster sync speed and remote flash capabilities on future Fuji X... XPro3, X-T2?).The commander flash mode just another gimmick, it interferes as much as \"normal flash\" mode on image exposure giving the hatred Deer in headlights look.Bad continuous focus, one of the announced improvements, at least with the 35mm f/1.4 with latest firmware 3.10 (I believe that the lens is to blame in this issue): To give an idea, I made a test in an ideal and easy focusing situation: Camera mounted on a tripod set on continuous focus on a static/contrasty object with everything on the same plane (a wall with dark/light paintings) on daylight an easy focusing subject the focus is always moving back and forth, it never stops! (it reaches focus, then GOES OUT OF FOCUS, then back again), so to have a picture in focus you should pray to the odds and it will probably be 1/3 of the times in focus, 1/3 back focus and 1/3 front focus if you are using a wide aperture and shallow DOF. It would be understandable with a moving object to be searching all the time, but not for a static subject (until it actually moves). Never seen this on a DSLR (even the most entry level) on the same conditions... when it reaches focus it stays/locks there if the object is not moving. I suspect this doesn\'t happen with the 56mm f/1.2, so if any one has that combo please confirm.Edit April 13: as mentioned above on the April 13 edit, this issue only happens with back button focus on manual focus mode. In continuous mode using shutter button to focus, focus does lock while in continuous focus. So it\'s actually a AF-L button in AF-C mode BUG (Instant AF Setting).Found another bug: the focus area size can\'t be modified while on manual focus (you can select the focus point, but can\'t move it). Why one would need this in manual focus? To use AF-L as back button focus, and for the same reason the focus point selection is already there in manual focus (but they missed add focus area size). (future fix via firmware update?)Built quality is great. Feels very good, and it\'s amazing to have it in a very small package comparing it to similar quality but on DSLR bodies. It enables you to take it easily to lots of more places that a full size DSLR.The image quality is very good, great natural colours, and you can have great flexibility and tweak the settings (highlight, shadows, film effects, etc) which makes it easier to tweak it enough to end with a great jpeg (since raw on lightroom it\'s usable only to scaled down images for internet so you don\'t see the lack of and distorted details of adobes demosiacing). The +2 to -2 in shadows and hightlights is confusing and not consistent with Hard-Soft in Raw conversion in camera.The built-in RAW conversion is good (as there is still no Lightroom support, and the support for X-Trans sensors of previous Fuji X cameras is worst than other software).The X-T1 could have been an amazing camera... but it has so many silly issues, luckily most are prone to be fixed with firmware upgrades (I hope Kaisen spirit is true), if they fix the remote app it will do it for me regarding to the light leak, since I could use that for long exposure and won\'t need to use gaffer tape or other nonsense on a new product!Sorry to the Fuji fans for my \"negative and sincere review\", but I really want Fuji to fix these issues and if every one omits the flaws, errors, bugs and bad usability implementations Fuji won\'t know that they have to fix something... clearly they haven\'t been able to notice these issues by their own and will continue to sell faulty cameras.I gave the 2 stars mainly for the Light leak and bad buttons (I wanted to mention though other CONS of the camera, I know I nitpick on some minor issues, but since most are fixable by firmware updates I wanted to mention them, although not basing the rating on them, nor the decision to buy it since they were known issues, like battery life), but if they fix other software/firmware issues I will probably update the rating and give more stars.PS: didn\'t know negative reviews were deleted on amazon, just in case had to change my amazon password. Edit: now the deleted reviews are back... strange
Post a Comment for "Fujifilm X-T1 16 MP Mirrorless Digital Camera with 3.0-Inch LCD (Body Only) (Weather Resistant) (Old Model)"